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  Beginners Guide to Surf Forecasting

Much of the surf we get on the south coast is wind generated. This means you should look for a low pressure system Mid-Atlantic with a 980mb reading or below. Ideal conditions are SW gales for 2/3 days, with winds turning offshore (N/NW) the next day.

Groundswell will be generated by lows in the Bay of Biscay , mainly found in the Spring or Autumn. These lows need a "fetch" of 500 miles to create that solid, clean swell we love so much. Give the swell 2 days to reach us from the depression.

When reading wave buoys look to the Scilly Isles (Buoy 62107) and Channel Approach (Buoys 62163 and 62029) buoys. If there is any North in the swell direction, there will be little chance of surf. West or South West swell will bring waves to us, but the wave height needs to be 3m+ to give us a good swell.

Easterly swells are rare and short-lived, but almost always clean (and cold), being generated by Northerly winds from Scandanavia blowing down from the North Sea .

All the Bournemouth breaks and Highcliffe will have surf with an onshore (S/SW) wind, but Kimmeridge will not work in these conditions. Clean S/W groundswell and offshore (N) wind will see great waves at Kimmeridge, but any sign of onshore wind will mean it will blow out.

As you will be aware there is no shortage of surf prediction sites on the web. However, bear the following in mind whilst using them:
1. Many sites are run remotely from the west country (or London !) without the benefit of local knowledge.
2. Computer models are used frequently to predict surf conditions - we all know how reliable a computer can be.
3. Wave buoys show " Open Ocean " swell - it is usually 3 times the size of the waves when they hit the beach!

If in doubt - check out our webcams - the camera never lies !!

 


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